AntSot

Packshot OFFER !

It’s PACKSHOT* Mania at Antoine Soto Photography

Your first 5 packshots for FREE** !

**For any order for more than 10 packshots…..

Make the call  – you know you want to !

* Packshot : simple single product on a table top white background

all prices on request.
Call or e-mail us now on
+32 (0) 475.79.68.43
sotoantoine@gmail.com

LogoAS_NEW 2013

It’s The Month Of March MADNESS OFFER !

The Month Of March Portait offer…

It’s Free !!

just bring your outfits (2 maximum) & we’ll sort out the rest

Only 10 spots available !*

1 print 20×30 cm & Jpeg Digital Negatives  (1200 x 1800, 240 dpi) will be offered. Prices for all other deliverables on demand.
*offer ends on the 31st of March or when the 10 places have been filled.

Call or e-mail us now on
+32 (0) 475.79.68.43
sotoantoine@gmail.com

LogoAS_NEW 2013

Refferals – Word Of Mouth

For all refferals that get a booking
any of my wedding packages…

You get a Free Portrait session* !

Can you believe it ? Get busy because I want to do your portrait !

1 print 20×30 cm & Jpeg Digital Negatives (1200 x 1800, 240 dpi) will be offered. Prices for all other deliverables on demand.
*offer ends on the 31st of March

Call or e-mail us now on
+32 (0) 475.79.68.43
sotoantoine@gmail.com

LogoAS_NEW 2013

Wedding Photography OFFER !

-10% on all packages !!!*

-50% on ‘Engagement’, ‘Pre-wedding day’ or ‘trash the dress’ portrait sessions*

-10% on all other deliverables (prints, frames, albums)*

Option 1 : BLACK LABEl

  • – up to 14 hrs coverage
    – mobile studio
    – High Resolution Digital Negatives
    – 1 x Personalised DVD case 15 cm duo fold
    – 1 x Amercan box frame 60 x 80
    – 1  x  portfolio Limited Edition 20/30 (10 tirages)
    – Album 30 x 30 (40 pages)
    – 30 day web posting
    – 300km travel included

Option 2 : PLATINUM

  • 8 hrs coverage
    – High Resolution Digital Negatives
    – 1 x personalised DVD case 13 cm duo fold
    – 1 portfolio Limited Edition 13/18 (10 tirages)
    – 1 x Amercan box frame 40 x 60
    – Album  20 x 20 (20 pages)
    – 30 day web posting
    – 250km travel included

Option 3 : SILVER

  • 6 hrs coverage
    – Jpeg Digital Negatives  (1200 x 1800)
    – 1 x personalised DVD case 13 cm duo fold
    – Album  20 x 20 (20 pages)
    – 15 day web posting
    – 200km travel included* deal ends on the 31st March 2013

    * for all reservations & orders before the 31st March, 2013

all package options & ‘à la carte’ prices on request.
Call or e-mail us now on
+32 (0) 475.79.68.43
sotoantoine@gmail.com

LogoAS_NEW 2013

High End Products – Only the best !

For all my wedding clients I have selected a fantastic range
of ‘High End’ Products

Frames, Albums, portfolio boxes, DVD cases
all of which are included in my various « Wedding Packages »

Please feel free to check out my wedding page to get an idea of the great deals you get !
https://antoinesoto.com

All price lists are available on request

all package options & ‘à la carte’ prices on request.
Call or e-mail us now on
+32 (0) 475.79.68.43
sotoantoine@gmail.com

LogoAS_NEW 2013

Benson Shoes Shoot

Another Benson shoot under the belt.

Here are a few selected pictures & a bit of history about the brand

You can see more of my shots for Benson in my portfolio section

BENSON SHOES is a men’s footwear brand that has been crafting entirely hand-stitched shoes for over 50 years.
The company, located in Casablanca, started out making military footwear but since 1996 has been producing a collection
of “classic” shoes.

Working exclusively with the finest quality leather and raw materials (from the Du Puy, Annonay and Stead tanneries)
BENSON initially targeted the French and German markets. Today, the brand owes its success to the excellent value for money
that its footwear range represents.

Our shops stock around 50 styles, among them traditional styles including Oxford and Derby shoes, buckle shoes, high-top boots and ankle boots, moccasins and sneakers. The many styles available are all designed to fit perfectly and most are available in half-sizes from 39 to 46.

Suede and leather uppers (smooth or grained) are paired with leather or rubber soles and are available in handmade patines, making these styles particularly elegant and unique.

Shops also stock a unique range of accessories, including leather shoehorns, beech wood and cedar wood shoe trees,
shoe care kits, waxes, fine fil d’écosse socks and leather belts, as well as SAPHIR Médaille d’or beeswax-based care products.
http://benson-shoes.be

Jewelry Photography Tips

Jewelry photography is notoriously tricky,
but is an interesting subject to explore.

There are many reasons why you might want to photograph your jewelry. Perhaps you run a business and need to photograph your products for your website; maybe you have a special heirloom you want to immortalise for posterity; or you might just want to experiment and have some fun.

Whatever your reasons, jewelry photography can be surprisingly difficult – simply placing it on a table and snapping away is likely to result in a series of dull, lifeless, uninspiring photos that doesn’t show your jewelry in its best light.

Taking photos of jewelry requires some careful preparation and the patience to experiment with variations of lighting, positioning, and composition. By doing so, you’ll ensure that your photos come out sharp and stunning.

It’s All About Lighting

I can’t over-stress how important lighting is in jewelry photography. Hard, dark shadows (like those produced by your camera’s flash) can easily overpower the delicacy of the jewelry, distracting your attention away from what really matters. For this reason it’s important to light your jewelry with a soft light, and from all directions.

Fossil1

Diffuse lighting reduces distracting shadows.

The best way to achieve this is by using a light tent. To use it you simply place your jewelry inside, and set up your lighting on the outside. The thin walls allow the light through, but also scatter it, creating a diffused, soft light which lights the jewelry from all directions.

Set Up Your Camera

A tripod is an essential bit of kit for jewelry photography. You will be shooting very close up, and possibly using quite long exposure times. This makes camera shake a real possibility, and blur can easily ruin a jewelry photo.

Pair of gold rings on a dark surface

Use sharp focusing and a narrow depth of field to focus the viewer’s attention.

Focusing – use your camera’s point focusing mode, or better still use full manual focusing. Focus on the most important part of the jewelry, such as the gem on a ring or the face on a watch.

Aperture – the aperture size depends on the effect you want. If you want your jewelry to be completely in focus, use a small aperture. If you want just a part of your jewelry to be sharp, with the rest blurred, use a wider aperture. Experiment with different sizes to see which shows off your jewelry best.

Exposure time – if your camera is in automatic mode, it will try to compensate for the very light background by reducing the exposure time. This will leave you will a dull, grey image. If you have manual mode, use this instead and keep increasing the exposure time until you get a photo with the right colour background. If you are stuck with auto mode, use your camera’s exposure compensation to brighten the scene up.

Post Processing

Jewelry photography calls for absolute perfection and, no matter how carefully you set up your photo,
it is rare to achieve it straight out of the camera. Use a software package like Photoshop to crop your image,
adjust the levels, and sharpen everything up.

Pair of earrings on a reflective black surface

Experiment with creative compositions, and use different backgrounds and surfaces to alter the feel of your shots. Use a small amount of wax or glue to make is stand up. This can be particularly effective for items of jewelry such as broaches or pendants, allowing you to show off their detail in a different way.

LogoAS_NEW 2013

Creepy Crawlies & Their Webs!

Spider webs make for fascinating subjects,
but aren’t always easy to photograph.

Their delicate structure and fascinating shapes are wonderful to look at, and they are covered in interesting details which make great close up studies. It’s amazing just how different each spider web can be when you look at it closely. Combine this with varying surroundings, lighting, and weather conditions and you’ll soon discover that spider web photography offers a huge range of possibilities. Howerver it isn’t always easy – focusing in particular can be difficult, and it can take a bit of searching to find one with enough strands to make a good shot.

When to Shoot

The best time to photograph spider webs is on a still day. Due to their lightness, spider webs can easily get blown around in the wind, leading to problems with focusing and blurry photos. Sit & be patient, wait for the wind to die down.

Early morning tends to be the best time of day to shoot because there generally isn’t much wind. You also get the added bonus
of morning dew adorning your spider web.

If you can’t shoot on a still day, try to find a spider web in a sheltered spot where it won’t feel too much wind, and shoot in between gusts. An umbrella is also a great way to shield the web from the elements.

Choose Your Viewpoint

Look at the spider web from both sides to see if the light catches one side better than the other. Often the web can look entirely different on each side, so be sure to choose the best one!

Close one eye and move your head about to find a plain background behind your spider web. This helps the web to stand out.
Also make sure there are no distracting elements in the background which might draw attention away from the web.

Spider webs are a part of nature, so try to avoid including un-natural, man-made objects in the background, such as cars and buildings. Unless of course your aim is to photograph a spider web in an urban environment.

Set Up Your Equipment

Use a wide aperture to blur the background of your photo and focus the viewer’s attention on the spider web. Be aware that using a wide aperture will give you a narrow depth of field, so you need to be extra careful when focusing.

Use manual focus – auto focus will have a hard time focusing on the fine threads of your web, and will most likely end up focusing right through it to the background. Because of the wide aperture, it’s essential that your focusing is spot on, so take your time.

Use a tripod if at all possible. With such a narrow depth of field you want to minimise camera movement as much as possible,
and a tripod is the best way to do that.

Flash can sometimes enhance the spider web, bringing out details and making it stand out more from the background.
Other times, natural light works best, so experiment with both.

Composition

Zoom in – the most interesting part of a spider web is the centre, so get in close. Don’t try to photograph the entire web
because the threads will be too thin to see clearly.

Place the middle of the web off-centre. This usually creates a more interesting and balanced composition, but sometimes
the symmetry centre positioning can work well too.

Include the spider or a trapped insect to add a focal point to the scene and add additional interest.

Dew-covered spider webs look great – the water droplets thicken the web so that it shows up better, and they also weigh
the web down so that it sways less in the wind.

Have Fun !

Newlex Portraits

Here are some portraits for the NEWLEX Law firm

If you need some good lawyers, check them out!

Shooting The Moon

Moon photography is harder than it seems. Use these tips to get your lighting, camera settings, and composition spot on.

The Moon can be a tricky to photograph. It’s much brighter than you’d think, making it a challenge to find the right exposure,
and it’s also a lot smaller than it appears, meaning it’s easy to be left with photos of a disappointing dot of light rather than the impressive disc you expected.
A common misconception is that lunar photography is expensive. While it’s true that you can spend thousands on long focal length lenses, it’s also possible to get some fantastic results with the equipment you already own.

The following tips will teach you how to photograph the Moon like a pro, helping you to get great results from your astrophotography regardless of your budget or experience.

Know Your Moon Phases

As the Moon orbits around the Earth, sunlight hits it from different angles, causing a variety of appearances or ‘phases’.

Knowing the phases of the Moon comes in handy when photographing it.

Each phase gives the Moon a different look and feel. A full moon is the brightest, but it looks quite « flat » because the light is hitting it face-on. Gibbous and quarter moons tend to be the most interesting, as the side-lighting produces shadows which bring out the craters and mountains on the Moon’s surface. A crescent moon is the darkest, but can be used to punctuate an otherwise uninspiring night sky.

Shoot at the Right Time of Day

The best time to photograph the Moon is at twilight (just before sunrise or just after sunset), with the moon close to the horizon. At this time of day there’s residual light in the sky, which helps pick out details in the surroundings and add interesting colours
to the sky and clouds. This results in a more atmospheric photo.

Photograph the Moon at twilight for added atmosphere. You’ll find the level of light changing rapidly, so arrive early to give yourself plenty of time to set up and get ready. Different moon phases show up better against different brightnesses of sky,
so keep shooting throughout twilight to give yourself the best chance of getting a killer picture.

Try shooting at night to get a really crisp, clear Moon against a pitch black sky. This is particularly effective when using a long lens to crop in tightly. The moon can also be seen during the day, although it’s not as prominent so is best used to complement some other foreground interest rather than being the main subject itself. It’s a good idea to do a little bit of advanced planning, using a moonrise and moonset calculator to find a day where you’ll get the right moon phase at the right time of day.

Fill the Frame

If you can afford a long telephoto lens, you can get some fantastic, detailed images of the Moon by cropping in on it as tightly as possible. You’ll need to use the longest lens you have available – 300mm is considered minimum, with 800mm or longer preferred to be able to capture the details of the Moon’s surface.

Most digital SLRs have a cropped sensor rather than a full-frame one. This means that your lenses will have a greater effective focal length, allowing you to get away with using a shorter lens. To keep costs down, you can extend the focal length of an existing lens by using 1 or more teleconverters. For example, you could attach two 2x teleconverters to a 200mm lens to give it an effective focal length of 800mm. This will reduce the image quality slightly, but is preferable to enlarging a photo taken with the standard lens.

Include Foreground Interest

If you don’t have the budget to buy a long focal length lens then all is not lost. You can get some great photos of the Moon using pretty much any lens, even ones with a wide angle – you just have to adjust your composition accordingly.

Rather than placing the Moon as the main subject of the photo, include some other objects in the foreground, positioning the Moon in the background to add interest to the scene. Photographing the Moon through blades of grass or rising above silhouetted mountains adds atmosphere and context to the shot, so a shorter focal length needn’t be a handicap.

The drawback to this technique is that it’s often impossible to have both the moon and the scenery well exposed. If in doubt, underexpose – it’s better to have a darker foreground than an overexposed Moon. Alternatively, you can take 2 shots –
one exposed for the Moon and one for the surroundings – and then combine them later in Photoshop.

Reduce Vibrations for Sharpness

Camera shake can be a real problem in moon photography, particularly when using very long lenses. The slightest movement can cause noticeable blurring, ruining your shot. It’s important to minimise vibrations as follows:

Use a tripod – A sturdy, stable tripod is essential. On its own, this will reduce most camera shake, and protect against external sources of vibration such as the wind.

Trigger the shutter remotely – Use a cable or remote release to eliminate the shake caused by pressing the shutter button.
If you don’t own one of these, activate your camera’s self-timer for the same effect.

Use mirror lock-up – Even the movement of your camera’s internal mirror can blur your photo. Mirror lock-up mode (MLU) works by moving the mirror out of the way before you take the shot. If your camera has this setting, turn it on for extra sharpness.

Find the Right Camera Settings

Choosing the correct moon photography settings is critical, and can be one of the hardest things to get right. Because of the variety of shooting conditions, there are no one-size-fits-all camera settings that work in all situations, but there is a process you can follow each time.

Choose settings manually – Your camera’s autoexposure won’t cope with a bright Moon against a dark sky, so switch to full manual mode. Start with an aperture of f/11, your camera’s lowest ISO speed (say ISO 100), and a shutter speed of 1/250 of a second. Use your camera’s autofocus to focus on the moon, then switch to manual focus mode to lock the focusing distance.

Test and improve – Take a test shot and review it on your camera’s LCD screen, zooming right in to check the detail and exposure. Adjust settings accordingly and repeat the process. When using very long lenses, try to keep your shutter speed below 1/2 a second to reduce blur. With wider angles you can get away with longer exposures.

Use exposure bracketing – As an extra backup it’s a good idea to bracket your exposures. This means that even if your camera settings aren’t spot on, you’ll hopefully have at least 1 reasonable photo that can be salvaged in your editing software.

‘Cheat’ with Photoshop

You can use digital editing software to tweak your photos until they look just the way you want them. For example, you can combine multiple images so that the Moon and the surroundings are both perfectly exposed, or even reposition or resize the Moon to get that perfect composition.

Using software to manipulate your photos is controversial but can result in some great images. This is a subject that divides photographers, with purists insisting that photos should have minimal or no digital manipulation. However, even the professionals have been known to ‘fake’ their shots in this way, and there’s no denying it can result in some breathtaking images.

Moon photography is challenging but very rewarding when you finally get that perfect shot. It’s a process that can be learned and improved on, and once you’ve got the hang of it you’ll be able to use it in a number of creative ways, snapping some stunning photos in the process.